upholstery mattelasse "Derby" #813253N - painted in 3 different reds
can see, this vest has a standard notched collar that has been rounded
to mimic a shawl collar; but it is made of two pieces and swings out to
1/2 way across the shoulder line. The crossover
hits at about armpit level. It's double breasted with 3 rows of buttons
and two flap pockets that are set midline to the lowest set of buttons.
The length is about
mid-hip level. there are no signs of front fitting darts.
can see in this back shot, the wrinkles at the neckline are from the
actor reaching backwards - not any sort of gathering at the neck. There
is a center back seam and a back adjusting belt that hangs
loosely. The belt appears to be tacked at the ends, not coming out of
any darts or p-seams. There appear to be no shaping darts or extra
seams here. So there are just the two front panels, two back panels,
collar and back belt. And from the scene with Gandalf's numinous
growth, the front corner of Bilbo's vest flips up in the wind so we can
tell that at least the front facing is the same fabric. Whether it is
entirely self-lined, or simply self-faced, we cannot judge.
Bilbo's trousers are the same drop-front breeches
worn by all the hobbits. However, Bilbo is a rich, gentlehobbit who is
not likely to wear such banal fabric as linen or wool. Oh no, Bilbo has
velvet trousers! In charcoal grey. How convenient, Denver Fabrics has
the most luscious Italian
in charcoal grey. The trousers,
although we never see the top since the waistcoat covers it at all
times, may be assumed to follow the same pattern as Frodo's: two flap
buttons on each side, self covered (I'm betting these buttons probably
aren't functional, but rather attached to the top and the trousers have
a more prosaic movie closure of either velcro, snaps or hooks and eyes
underneath. Mustn't risk popping a button!) and side slit pockets.
Also, while most sewing patterns for drop front breeches have a waist
band, hobbit trousers do not. Neither do they have any adjusting lacing
at the small of the back. There is, however, a small V-notch in
the center back and the X-back suspenders button on. Bilbo also has
fancy grey shank buttons with gold roping around on the side hems. At
the moment I'm planning on using the pattern from Simplicity's Pirates
of the Carribean set (Simplicity 4923). There was a Victorian
men's pattern that I also considered, but I felt it would be easier to
make the pirate trousers a little longer (with no knee band) and they
looked a little straighter legged than the Victorian which looked a
little more tapered. Otherwise, the construction on them looked pretty
much the same.
The mockup is almost ready to cut to the velveteen,
and I've got some really cool buttons painted up for the legs. Still
have to adapt the suspenders.
Bilbo's party jacket resembles a
jacket from the front. It has a simple single breasted front with
two gold buttons and a shawl collar. The top button is almost level with the
middle wasitcoat button and the lower one at the bottom edge of the
waistcoat. The cuffs are
not simply turned back, but are backed with the same quilted fabric as
the outer view. The collar and cuffs are made with a quilted silk
that is actually a shot silk (changeable silk, iridescent silk - pick
your prefered term) of green shot with gold and quilt stitched with
gold. And the entire jacket and cuffs are edges with
the same shade of greeny-gold rope
piping. The jacket itself is maroon velvet.
of the jacket is fairly simple: no darts or additional seams. The
sleeve appears to be a single piece sleeve rather than a more common
2-piece coat sleeve. The back of the jacket,
however, may be a bit more involved. And here we differentiate between
the movie and the Toybiz figure. The Toybiz action figure of "Party
Bilbo" indicates that the back of the jacket has a belt with two gold
buttons, although when Bilbo turns to hide from the S-Bs no such belt
is in site. The action figure also indicates a center back vent. This is up for debate. Is that dark line a center vent, or just a
fold? In other shots, there's no sign of it, but this looks awfully
dark to be a fold. And see? no back belt.
The other issue up for debate is the
piecing of the back. Unfortunately much of the scene is in somewhat
soft focus, and velvet 'eats' seams. Is that a princess-seam line coming off the armscye and allowing some flare over the hips? The
wrinkles looks suspicous, but other shots indicate a smooth back
line. Here's a shot of him extending his arm: clearly it is a
one-piece sleeve (the second seam would show here), but is that really
a princess-seam coming off the armscye, or an artifact?
(since I was buying the charcoal velvet) didn't have a maroon velvet,
but they did have a raspberry. While the raspberry is way too pink to
match the movie color, Jonatha (bless her heart!) was already dying
some other fabric bronze for me and said that if we (she!) overdyed the
raspberry at the same time, it would deepen the color and turn it very
close. Close! It looks like an exact match to me. Incredible. And it
still has the luscious feel of cotton velvet. The lining fabric has
been a little more difficult. I have not been able to find the original
fabric (even if I could get it, which I likely couldn't) since most
shot silk is taffeta and not jacquard woven, and silk jacquards are
usually shot. Maybe she had it custom woven? So the decision was which
is more important: the iridescent quality, the color or the pattern.
There are many swirly fabrics out there, I found quite a few. Thai
Silks has a nice silk jacquard in a swirly pattern that was deemed to
be really close to the pattern used, but it would need to be dyed and
would come out flat and not have the iridescence of the shot weave.
Joann Fabrics carries a polyester (Signature Silkessence - upholstery
weight) that has a slightly bigger swirly pattern embroidered on
(rather than woven in) and actually does come in an olivey green shot
with gold. So it looks like I'm going with the poly so I can have a
close pattern with the right color and changeable quality. I'll have to
give on the fiber since I don't think a flat color would look better
even if it were silk.
The pattern is likely to be quite a mix. After all,
Bilbo's jacket front is very plain: no shaping at all, and that
can be from either an interesting women's
coat (Butterick 4354) or a Simplicity smoking jacket (However, I used
my mother's old out of print Simplicity 7075 shawl collared jacket).
But the back has
a lot of fitting issues- whether there is a back vent or not, and
whether there are princess seams in the back or not. To get a fitted
and a plain front will take fussing with two different patterns.
probably. At least there's only the 1 underarm seam. So we'll see, I
haven't gotten that
Of course Bilbo's hair is not the same style as mine
(even if the color is almost close). I found a wig online that looked
possible. Wellll, it's a little short but the color is good. So we'll
see. I also found a wig at a store that might be better, but I've
already spent $50 on the first wig and since they aren't returnable I'm
not sure I want to buy another. Luckily the one from the dance store is
only $20. We'll see.
And there is the furry feet issue. I've already made
foot-wigs for Dora Took, so that's really pretty easy. I'll need to
make another pair in a whiter color for Bilbo. It's just a matter of
putting a good movie or two in the dvd and sitting down with the
knit-picker (micro latch-hook tool) and latch-hooking hair/wool onto
some netting. The ears I still have from Lederkram (wonderful hobbit
ears!). And of course I need to find a green paisly scarf for the
ascot. That shouldn't be too difficult, I'll just have to actually go
into a store and look!
So this is progress so far. It's coming along.