back to bilbo
I've been working on the
first mockup for the
pattern. The waistcoat looks at first glance to be a shawl collar. But
it isn't. It's actually a standard notch collar - but rounded out like
a shawl. What a pain. Ever try to find a vest pattern with a notch
collar? Ok, I did actually find some... but the lapels always ended at
the shoulder seam, and I don't know the collar shape well enough to
extend it. First I thought I'd work off a shawl collar vest (had that)
and adapt for the 2-pieces. What a disaster. I just couldn't quite wrap
my brain around what I needed to do. So I ended up taking an old
Simplicity pattern for Music Man jackets (Simplicity 9686) since it was
a plain jacket
with no darts and had a standard notched collar. I mocked up the
front, back and collar (no sleeves - it's a vest!), chopped it short
and began to tweak. Ok, I also enlarged it because it only goes to XL
and I'm a XXL. And I think I have more hips than Ian Holme. I have now
taken in the armscye to where my shoulder point is, widened the
front panel into a double breasted vest instead of the single breasted
jacket, raised up the neck of the vest so the lapels start much higher,
and added fabric so that it makes the shape of a shawl collar but keeps
the 2 piece notched aspect. Too many pins, it's now time to make mock
#2. Then I can start on the fitting issues.
Here is Mockup #1. As you can see the CF needed to be pulled out
for a double breasted jacket, and the collar needed some shaping. The
shoulders have only been folded under to about my shoulder point but
the armscye hasn't been cut for it, so there is a huge fold/dart coming
down. Also, it seems I chopped the jacket too short and it needs
lengthening. I think it's time to make Mock #2 and see how the
adjustments work. Might also see if I can add a bit of hip width.
So I cut a clean front and reused the back (cut a new collar as well).
I'm runing low on that ugly plaid, so I used an old pillow case for the
new fronts (hey, just the right size!). I still have the shoulders just
under, but I was able to expand the front panels a bit and taper the
side seam to allow for more stomack. Took care of a lot of the folds!
I'll be curious to see, as soon as I get a chance, how different it
will be on me when I have um, less 'frontage' than the dress form. I
think that will make a big difference
in those gather pulls as well. I did lengthen the new fronts, and it's
just about the right level: mid hip. Just have to remember to add hem
allowance. I think this one is ready to be fitted on me.
like Mockup# is ready to be made up for the pattern. Ok, a few
teeny tweaks got done the next day: the hemline was leveled, the
armscye was lowered a tad to cut out some buckling and the side seam
was taken in a smidge. very minor. I told you I could take care of
the 'frontage' issue (abdominal binders from the medical supply store
really flatten you a lot. kinda warm, too). LOL! well, you can tell I'm
a girl: look at which side I automatically overlapped. Well that will
certainly be fixed before I put the buttons on.
Naw. I've decided I don't like the large armscyes.
They really should be tighter in... so I'll have to put in some darts.
I think the darts will look better than gaping armholes. So.... on to
I really wish the wig was a little longer, but it may have to do
anyway. It's the "Peter" style from BestWigs.com. Actually I think I've
found a wig, I'm waiting for it to come in. I found it through my local
dance/costume store! It's more of a loose perm style that comes in
grey. It's a good grey, and it's longer curls, but it's hard to get
them to stretch out. It sorta goes between something from Annie and a
short perm. <sigh>
I know the buttons should be a filigree cloverleaf shape, which I
haven't found. But these seem to give the right impression - and I
can't resist that their design name is "Evensong"!
Cool! almost finished. Actually I did a few more mockup versions and
changes. Finally got things worked out. Now all it needs is buttonholes
and it's done. It's got functional pockets (what a pain in the
patoot!), I've got it overlapped to the right side... while trying to
fuss the final shaping on the collar (something just didn't look right)
I kept hearing Tim Gunn from Project Runway in my head: "make it work!"
so I did.
doesn't it look grand on top of civvies!